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Considering
the rich selection of ethnic food in Hoboken, it puzzled
plenty of residents that Indian food was nowhere to be found
in town. Then in March a hand-written sign was posted in the
window of 1210 Washington St. the said “Indian restaurant
opening soon”. Suddenly the town was buzzing.Mehernosh and
Tina Daroowalla are the savvy husband-and-wife team from
Bombay that recognized Hoboken as the perfect marketplace
Indian food. Beginning in 1991 they both worked at Mrs.
Daroowalla’s brother’s restaurant in Paramus called
Namaskaar.
For three years they watched Namaskaar gain a steady
clientele, and receive enthusiastic reviews in the press,
including the New York Times.
But eventually the Daroowallas felt it was time to have
their own place. In February, after careful research, they
decided Hoboken would be a promising location. The double
storefront space they chose (former home of Nikko restaurant)
would provide them with plenty of room: two dining rooms plus
a bar area.
Although Mehernosh Daroowalla claims they did not do
much to the space, it seems that a great deal of care was
taken to create a comfortable atmosphere. If Sixth Street
Manhattan is your point of reference for Indian restaurants,
you will be surprised by the refreshingly light and inviting
design of this restaurant.
Credit for the décor goes to Tina Daroowalla, who
holds a master’s in interior and industrial design from
Pratt. She chose deep green for the table linen and chairs,
and a delicate Indian inspired floral fabric for the
banquette. The brick wall she painted cream and in one dining
room she punctuated them with brilliant panels of Indian silk.
The serene setting is complete with a soft sitar soundtrack.
The menu at India on the Hudson is North Indian, also
known as Mughlai because of the Persian (Mughal) influence.
This style of cooking is characterized by meats and breads
that are roasted in Tandoors (large, very hot clay ovens),
also rich meat curries, and elaborate rice mixtures known as
Biryanis.
From the
appetizers, its hard to go wrong with the Vegetable Samosa
($2.75). Two potato-stuffed pastries are served with coriander
and tamarind chutney. The Papri Chaat appetizer is an
interesting cold combination of cubed potatoes, garbanzos and
vegetables, topped with crunchy puffed rice, spicy chutneys
and cool yogurt ($2.75).
The Chicken Ginger Kabab at India on the Hudson could
be the most delicious food to come out of a tandoori oven
($10.95). The large, boneless pieces of marinated chicken are
subtly flavored with ginger and cooked to succulent
perfection. This dish is not to be confused with “Tandoori
Chicken” which is still on the bone and characteristically
bright orange in color.
I also recommend the Tandoori Shrimp: the giant
orange-colored prawns have a delightful roasted flavor and
tender texture ($14.95). Like most Indian restaurants,
tandoori specialties are brought to the table sizzling on a
platter of sliced onions with lemon wedges.
Tandoori dishes cooked without oil and without sauce
are a good choice if you seek low fat items. But for those not
counting fat grams, try the traditional lamb, chicken, or
seafood dishes, prepared in a variety of sauces. Most dishes
sampled were pleasantly spicy so if you prefer mild seasoning
you should specify it.
Vegetarian choices include favorites like Saag Paneer
(spinach and paneer, $7.95), Gobi Aloo (Cauliflower and
potato, $7.95), and Chana Masala (spicy chick peas, $7.95).
Regular yellow Dal is usually available, but served only upon
request.
Among the breads I found the Naan ($1.95) and Pooris
($1.95) quite good, but the standout here is the Onion Kulcha
($2.50) made with a tender dough like Naan, stuffed with sweet
onions and herbs,
and roasted in the Tandoor.
When it comes to Indian desserts, I’m partial to
those warm round cakes in rose-flavored syrup called Gulab
Jamun ($2.75). Another choice could be Mango Lassi ($2.75),
the fruity yogurt drink that seems more like a dessert then a
beverage. Or simply a cup of Masala Tea ($1.95) with milk and
sugar, which can make an ideal conclusion to a meal
Service at India on the Hudson is somewhat formal and
always courteous. All dishes are served tableside by dignified
waiters in black suits.
India on the Hudson is open for lunch, offering a
choice of three “thalis”, sampler platters offering a
choice of either two vegetarian dishes, a chicken dish, or a
lamb dish, plus dal, rice with peas, yogurt salad and a choice
of breads.
For the moment liquor is strictly BYOB, but India on
the Hudson expects to have a liquor license in two months.
The Daroowallas are a young and sophisticated pair who
saw that Hoboken was ready for the intense flavors of North
India. And while the prices are higher than sixth street, so
too is the quality of the experience.
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