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Calling it India On The Hudson is something of a stretch since
the trimly attractive restaurant is tucked in a row of
storefronts on Hoboken's main street a couple of blocks from
the river. But what may be lacking in waterfront views at this
11-month-old eating place is made up for in some of the
savory, yet mildly spiced, Mogul dishes of northern India that
are the kitchen's specialty.
Under the same
ownership as the more upscale Namaskaar in Paramus, the casual
Hudson County offshoot comprises a pair of narrow dining rooms
and a postage stamp of a bar. The space is given a stylish
lift with good lighting, tapestry-upholstered banquettes and
woven silk hangings.
To judge from the dishes tried on a couple of visits,
appetizers and breads do not always live up to the flavorful
main courses. The best bets are the Tandoori dishes -- lamb,
chicken or shrimp, marinated and then lightly cooked to retain
their succulence in the clay charcoal oven -- and the aromatic
vegetarian and lamb casseroles.
Tandoori-baked chicken ginger kebab is terrific, the
tender chunks marinated in yogurt and spices. Also good are
Kadai Mushrooms, sautéed in a little Indian wok, and catfish
tikka masala, cooked in a mild tomato and bell pepper sauce.
Among other savory entrees count Lamb Saag, boneless
chunks of meat simmered with a mellow spinach and spice sauce
to meld the flavors; Rogan Josh, lamb cubes in a gently
curried yogurt sauce, and skewered lamb kebabs roasted in the
Tandoor.
Indian breads are among the worlds most interesting.
Onion Kulcha, the dough filled with crunchy onions, was
decent, Naan, the pizza-like flat bread baked on the curved
clay walls of the Tandoor, was oddly tough. To eat with the
fingers Indian style, by the way, one tears off a piece of
Naan or whole wheat Chapati with the right hand, uses it to
scoop up a morsel of food and folds it over to eat out of
hand.
Many Indians are strictly vegetarian, and the meatless
cookery of southern India has developed into an art. A good
way to sample several dishes is to order the Thali, a circular
metal tray holding three vegetarian dishes and condiments,
topped with a big puffy Poori bread. Another ethnic specialty,
Biryani, a stir-fry of nutty long-grain basmati rice, is
better here in the vegetable version than with meat.
As for starters, although the bite-sized mixed kebabs
of chicken and lamb could be shared, some appetizers, like
Pakoras, the savory fritters, and Samosa, the curried
turnovers, were listless, seemingly reheated. Also, Papri
Chaat, the usually intriguing dish of crackers and diced
potatoes covered with chutney-accented yogurt, is not as good
as elsewhere.
Sweet milk-based desserts flavored with rosewater or
cardamom may not appeal to everyone, but at India on the
Hudson, a couple worth trying are Rasmalai, creamy cheese
patties topped with pistachios, and Gulab Jamun, warm little
dumplings in honey syrup.
The warm carrot pudding called Gajar Halwa, however,
was more like a toddler's puree than the custardy pudding it
should be.
Prices are moderate, and a three-course dinner runs about
$18. At lunch, the combination platters are good value,
including a vegetarian Thali.
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