The Bergen Record
Friday, January 11, 2002
At India on the Hudson in Hoboken
By MARGE PERRY
Restaurant Reviewer

            India on the Hudson had a whole lot going for it before we even stepped in the door: It made parking easy in Hoboken -- a town notorious for its lack of parking spaces -- by validating our ticket for a lot just around the corner.

            In general, eating at India on the Hudson is easy even without parking validation. We didn't have a problem getting a table on a relatively busy Saturday night, the service is decent, and best of all, the menu has a wide range of choices -- from vegetarian to rich lamb dishes, and from simple flavors to fiery spice.

            Although we didn't necessarily love all the breads that were included, the India on the Hudson Bread Basket ($8.95) is a perfect illustration of the something-for-everyone appeal of the restaurant. For the diner who prefers flavors as simple and familiar as possible, there is the naan, a plain classic Indian bread similar to a pita. On the other end of the spectrum is the chicken tikka naan, a bread filled with bits of highly seasoned chicken, tomatoes, and bell peppers. The basket included other breads, and while all were too generously endowed with ghee (clarified butter), it was also one of the reasons they were so delicious.

            On another night, we ordered the pudina parantha ($2.95), one of 15 specialty breads that can be ordered separately. The parantha, which is a flaky wheat bread shaped like a pita, was far better without the mint (pudina), which lent the bread a brackish flavor and overwhelmed the nuttiness of the wheat.

            Bhel puri ($3.95), on the other hand, was perfectly balanced. Always a personal favorite dish, this version of the puffed rice and vegetable salad had plenty of lively sweet tamarind sauce, just enough heat, and a wonderful array of textures. While the puffed rice and crackers in the salad were somewhat less crisp than in other versions I've had, I didn't mind -- it was because the crackers were more generously "sauced" with the cilantro and tamarind mixtures. Don't miss this wonderful starter, which is served in a portion big enough to share.

            For meat eaters, the kebab platter ($7.45) offers more than enough food for two to four people as a first course. You'll be able to sample the lamb samosa, a fried and somewhat too greasy pastry with a dry but tasty filling of ground lamb, the tender brick-colored chunks of tandoori chicken tikka, and the intensely flavorful lamb seekh -- ground, pressed lamb rolled into sausage-shaped pieces that we all vied for.

            On the same visit, someone at the table ordered the tandoori mixed grill ($16.95), which also included: lamb seekh; tandoori shrimp, which tasted of iodine and were unpleasantly chewy; and tandoori chicken, which was tender but somewhat mealy.

            Likewise, chicken ginger kebabs ($11.95) had sparkly ginger flavor, but the mealy, mushy texture of the exterior of each chunk of chicken became too hard to ignore after a few bites.

            A far more appealing chicken dish was the chicken Goa curry ($10.95), a stew of chunks of chicken in an abundance of deep salmon-colored, thick sauce of sweet coconut, a little heat, and curry. The breads made wonderful sponges for this hearty and addictively complex sauce.

            All the entrees are served with basmati pulao rice -- lightly seasoned white basmati with a scattering of cooked peas. The rice made a great bed for the chicken Goa curry, as well as any other dish with sauce -- it was, in fact, wonderful, buttery, fluffy, rice that was loved by everyone on both visits, whether eaten plain or with the sauce from another dish. Paneer makhanwalla ($8.95) may be more of an acquired taste. This vegetarian dish of diced Indian "cottage cheese" (which is more similar in texture to creamy feta) is cooked in an extremely rich and buttery tomato sauce. The cheese is very mildly flavored, and similar to tofu in that it takes on the flavor of the sauce in which it is cooked.

            Another vegetarian dish we sampled, vegetable biryani ($9.95), was as flavorful as the paneer makhanwalla was rich. Layers of   seasoned vegetables in the rice made each forkful an adventure, as the vegetables retained enough of their inherent flavor to stay distinct, despite the fact that they were cooked to the point of being very tender, and all seasoned with the same aromatic spice mixture. This is best ordered as a side dish to share among several people -- and even then, you may be lucky enough to have some left to take home.

            India on the Hudson seems to do a rather brisk takeout business. Throughout the evening, people streamed in and out the front door to pick up their dinners. They obviously aren't aware of the pleasure of validated parking and sitting in this simple dining room with its pretty touches and getting waited on by pleasant servers -- and having plenty to take home for dinner the next night.

 
¿ ¿  Good
INDIA ON THE HUDSON
Fare: Northern Indian.
Prices: Appetizers $3.95 to $7.45, Entrees $8.95 to $16.95.
Credit cards: AE, MC, V.
Reservations: No
Days closed: None
Liquor, wine: Yes
 

home   menu page 1   menu page 2   menu page 3   party tray menu   coupon   map

Design and Hosted by WebPageIt.com